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CLICK to enlarge.The undersea world 

The some 180 islands making up French Polynesia are, for most of them, surrounded by a reef. The volcanic origin of high islands and atolls has given us what many envy about us: lagoons. With the natural barrier of the reef, lagoons benefit from calm shallow waters, an ideal home for many animal and vegetal species. This way the lagoon has become a paradise for divers, whether beginners or experienced, who come there to discover the delights of an exceptional undersea world. Coral is the first "inhabitant" of the lagoons. Unlike what is often believed, coral is truly an animal, although primitive, with a tentacle like body and an orfice assimilated to a mouth. Seaweed accumulates around it to live with it in symbiosis and make up the "coral fringe", the reef system. There are many species of coral, among which the porites (a kind of large "head" that looks like a human brain), "cauliflower" coral (pocillopora), an ideal shelter for small lagoon fishes, the acropora, with thick branches, not to mention the great variety of polyps with tentacles where plancton gathers. Many kinds of seaweeds with various shades and textures (porolithon, halimeda, caulerpa, etc) blend with coral to create a kind of underwater steppe with astonishing shades.

Now that the backdrop has been set, let's take a look at the "inhabitants" of this amazing microcosm. But first of all, remember the fondamental rule when visiting the lagoon: LOOK BUT DON'T TOUCH The lagoon ecosystem is very fragile and collecting crustaceans and other shells is very regulated.

CLICK to enlarge.The echinoderms, crustaceans, mollusks, and of course, the fishes live harmoniously together within this mysterious universe. Echinoderms are the sea-urchins, the holothuries and other starfishes that feed by contact with the sand and lagoon coral. The rori (a sort of gooey but harmless big sausage) is the most common holothury in our lagoons. It crawls on the ground, eating sand to absorb its organic material. The vana are sea-urchins with long black spikes, they are a tasteful treat for seafood lovers. The fetu’e is the very decorative pencil-like sea-urchin. The taramea is a particularly voracious starfish that can devour up to 10m2 of coral a year. This is why big clean-up campaigns are organized on a reagular basis to rid the lagoons of this potential serial killer

Crustaceans and other mollusks are plentiful in our lagoons, starting with the magnificent porcelain shells, which abund near the reef. The trocas, big cone-shaped shells are still sought for their mother of pearl. CLICK to enlarge.The marlinspikes are splendid long and pointed spotted shells which are a collector's delight. The ma’oa, whose flesh is appreciated by the connoisseurs, live near the reef side where the surf breaks. The pahua, large "bénitiers"shells, some specimens of which reach nearly one meter in size. Crabs, lobsters and varo (squills) are crustaceans particularly appreciated in a plate. In the remote islands, lobsters are much more abundant than in the Society Islands where they are abundantly fished.

And also...

 

The multi colored coral

 

Lagoon fishes are abundant and often multicolored. There are over 800 species, from surgeon fishes to sharks, rays and moray eels. The smallest fishes hide inside the bouquets formed by coral: angel fishes, Picasso fishes (oiri) and butterfly fishes These species are not eatable, remember this and keep in mind that there is no reason to catch them. Parrot fishes, grouoers and goat fishes are larger specimens competing with colors with their smaller cousins. Moray eels (puhi), hiding in coral cracks are more dangerous. They seldom attack, but they don't like to be disturbed. Jackfish (paihere) is a traditional fish in local gastronomy. You can buy them at the market or on the roadside along with parrot fishes and delicious mahi mahi.
 


CLICK to enlarge.

As to rays,there are three species in Polynesia:  the gray lagoon rays, the manta rays and the "leopard" spotted eagle ray. Gray rays are the most common, they are 1 to 1.5 meter in diameter with their wings deployed and are very cuddly. They come slowly near divers and when you feed them (they are carnivorous but harmless) they even go as far as letting themselves be petted by swimmers. Leopard rays take their name from their splendid spotted or striped skin, but unfortunately they are shier, unless thay have been tamed, as it is done in Bora Bora. As to the enormous manta rays, they can reach a wing span of 4 meters and weigh over 500 kg. When theu hunt for plancton, they perform large underwater loopings in an immense graceful ballet: a grandiose spectacle. They are often accompanied by remora fishes waiting for scraps from their meals. In theory, none of these rays is reputed dangerous. As to the legend about rays tackling divers at the bottom of the lagoon to drown them, the Polynesians take it with a grin. You would know about it…  

Sharks (”black tips” and ”white fins”) often venture inside the lagoons, without however being a real danger. The species to fear (”lemon sharks”, ”tiger sharks”) stay far away outside the lagoon. The only true danger in the lagoon is ther nohu, or stone fish, whose sting is very painful and sometimes deadly. Its dorsal spikes are sharp and contain a very powerful venom.

Passes, which connect lagoons to the high high seas, often offer a unique spectacle for divers, especially in Rangiroa. Dozen of sharks wait there quietly for their meal served by in and out currents. A truly macabre banquet. Not for the weak-at-heart...


CLICK to enlarge.

The open ocean is the realm of big fishes. Tunas, Pacific wahoos and bonitos ensure the islanders' survival. Aboard their ”bonitiers”, fast fishing boats about 10 meter long (30 ft), fishermen compete in skills to bring back the daily catch. Swordfish fishing, the haura, (deep sea fishing) attracts some world renown specialists to our waters. The biggest specimens ever caught in Polynesia exceeded 8 meters and 700 kg. The mahi mahi (coryphene dolphin fish) is still harpooned frst om the legendary poti-marara, a very fast and very versatile watercraft.

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